Back-to-Back Pure Malt: Suntory Hokuto 12yo 1st and 2nd Release

   

"Hokuto" was created and named accordingly to commemorate the birth of Hokuto city in the Yamanishi prefecture. The vatting, which consists of a variety of key malts from the Hakushu distillery as well as Yamazaki genshu malt was released on June 22, 2004. The 12yo pure malt vatting that adopted the "bamboo charcoal filtration" method was the result of Suntory's pursuit to create an "easy to drink" whisky. Interestingly, the Hokuto pure malt was at times marketed as an alternative to Sochu with certain catch copy saying: "Clear, tasty, and refined - allowing you to shift from Sochu to whisky". Among other promotions Suntory suggested that this pure malt was designed to be drank with ice - specifically 'half rock'. This I'd not recommend as this whisky is initially mellow, watering it down completely drowns it. The Hokuto 12yo pure malt came in two distinctive label variations (releases) before it was sadly put out of production in 2010. The first release (left image) in 2004 pictured lush forestry that I presume is either the surroundings of the Hakushu distillery and/or the city of Hokuto. This release is labeled as Suntory Pure Malt Whisky (top of label) with Hokuto written in quotations (bottom of label), and bottled by Suntory limited. The second label variation (right image) drops the wording 'Suntory' out of 'Pure Malt Whisky' (top of label), and moves the brand name of Hokuto towards to top without the quotations. Besides these small difference on the second release that accordingly was put out in  2005, the obvious change is the label's image that clearly depicts the Hakushu distillery and surrounding forest in the foreground of rolling hills in Hokuto, and what looks like to be the area's wheat silos? Also, in 2005 a quarter bottle (250ml) hit the market. Now...any difference taste wise?

●　Suntory Pure Malt Whisky - "Hokuto" - Aged 12 Years - Suntory Limited 2004 (pictured left)

Nose: Fresh and clean with immediate citrus - predominately lime with a hint of Yuzu. Fresh forestry notes. Aloe Vera mixed with vanilla and/or toasted marshmallows. Subtle Mint and Shiso intertwine. Actually, I could even say a weak Mojito? Musk melons and a drizzle of honey. Green banana. Pickled crisp vegetables (cucumber). All up - lovely oak, very delicate.

Taste: As with the nose clean, and silky smooth. Mellow spices. There's a tad mouthfeel of menthol gum. Moderate sweet lime. Green toasted capsicum, subtle oak influence, green banana, a touch of toffee and/or scorched black sugar. Plain cashews.

Finish: A combination of mellow mint and menthol gum, and white pepper on red cabbage. Mellow oak. Medium length.

Comment: This is an exceptional whisky that is quite rightly suited to the warmer months of the year. The colour of the whisky in the first release is much darker than the second release - both in the bottle and by glass. This may suggest malt in the first release spent more time in casks compared to the second release (there may be a slight influence in lighting).

●　Pure Malt Whisky - Hokuto - Aged 12 Years - Suntory 2005 (pictured right)

Nose: Whipped cream, fried pineapple, fresh banana fritters, dusty wood chips, integrated subtle sweet smoke, Allen’s fruit tingles: lemon and orange, sweet oak, salt rock, and strangely but pleasant spicy tomato juice.

Taste: Lush. Smooth and silky with gorgeous oak, a dash of concentrated lime juice, and a drop of pineapple juice from a can. The whipped cream makes itself present before spiced mixed nuts roll into the equation. The malt becomes very creamy the longer it sits.

Finish: Dry, tame, and oaky, and like the first release medium in length.

Comment: Although a mass marketed line-up of Suntory at the time, it is now ever so scarce due to its popularity, and effectively cheap price for excellent quality. It originally took me months and months to find my first bottle (second release), followed with the first release. Now I can never stop finding them. This Pure Malt ticks all the right boxes, it offers something different to Suntory’s core Yamazaki and Hakushu single malts.

To conclude, both versions retain a clean-cut, fresh, mellow citrus presentation. Both versions are very similar. However, the second release in my opinion has a sweater top note (creamy) on the nose, and is slightly more richer than the first release (only by a point or two). At the same time the first release has a slightly more sumptuous mouthfeel (again, only by a point or two). At the end of the day there are only very subtle differences. Both versions are of exceptional quality with great blending - a must have for every drinker.

Japanese Drams of Yesteryear (3): Suntory Special Reserve NAS Circa 1980's 43% abv

Suntory Special Reserve was launched in 1969 to commemorate Suntory's 70th anniversary. The original and earlier batches display the 70th anniversary insignia that is embossed in the glass at the back of the bottle. Like most bottles of whisky you can distinguish the era of release by taking notice of the label. In the case of the Special Reserve expression, bottles from the mid 70s were labeled "A Rare Blend", while 80s batches were labeled with "A Supreme Blend". Furthermore, certain releases have additional information to pinpoint a specific year, like the red stripe below the tin capsule and above the Suntory crest in the picture above. This (according to research) apparently indicates the bottle I bought was a batch from 1986. Currently the malt used in today's Special Reserve is Hakushu key malt that has been matured in white oak, in my personal opinion this was not the case back in the 70s as my bottle shows very strong evidence of sherry maturation in colour, aroma, and taste respectively.

Nose: Delicate, moderately rich sherry - no mistake here! The tiniest hints of grain is immediately overcome with again, quality, tame, cream sherry. Assorted fruits are at the leading edge (dried figs, apricots, Australian plums, and evidence of underripe nectarine). It continues to roll with a fruity peach sauce, Muscovado, and mellow coffee toffee. Pleasantly oaky. On the artificial sweet front you get red jellies and Werther's soft cream caramels. There's an interesting soy berry marinade and cranberry sauce going on. Tilt the glass at certain angles (with your nose encased) and you'll get a dose of scones saturated in lightly salted butter, and quality honey. Water accentuates a mildly tangy orange, which was really always there. What lovely assorted aromas.

Taste: Moderately spiced honey-soy marinade. Dry sherry. Very oaky. Muscovado. Burnt toffee, and spicy cheery coconut. Bitter-sweet orange with cocoa. I also detect suggestions of espresso. The grain is much more evident on the palate compared to the nose however, it carries itself well on the tongue with a peppery butter mouthfeel. Along with all pleasantries there is an interesting vegetal note - my thoughts are stir-fry Zucchini.

Finish: Moderate to reasonably long with a combination of bitter sweetness (cocoa soufflé with orange).

Comment: I can picture salary men at the time possibly slugging this back with copious amounts of water added for their Mizuwari. I'm all for the policy of 'drink it how you like', but this blend is too good to think it was drank in any other way than neat. My new 'Daily Dram'. Lovely blending with evident cask and malt quality at the time.


Click (here) for Japanese Drams of Yesteryear (1) and (here) for part (2).

Japanese Drams of Yesteryear (2): Kirin Ten Distilleries 43% abv

Ten prominent distilleries from Kirin-Seagram's portfolio at the time were selected for this blended whisky that was produced in 1989. The component whiskies consists of malt from Scotland (40%), American grain (10%), Canadian grain (10%), and naturally malt and grain from Kirin-Japan (40%). Aside from Fujigotemba, the roundup of distilleries were composed of Strathisla, Glen Grant, Longmorn, Glen Keith, and Allt A Bhainne from Scotland. Canadian grain came from Waterloo, Lasalle, and Gimli, while the Lawrenceburg grain distillery represented America.

Nose: Initially some dusty woody elements (wooden lettuce crates, tree bark, and almond shells). It has a damp and musty scent going on (wet towels left over night) but this gives way to reasonably pleasant aromas such as lychee, mellow Sakura tea leaves, dried mango, and vanilla poached pear. In addition there is light Splice pine-lime (creamy vanilla ice cream encased in citrus fruit flavoured ice) and watermelon. A detection of Gudang Garam cigarettes? A slight alcohol and grainy note rolls of the top. Time reveals mint, musk lifesavers, and tomato leaves followed by flat cola dregs that has been left in the fridge for days. Overall it's not too bad really...just a little too light however, it attains a great summery nose.

Taste: Not as active as the nose, although certainly not a write-off. In no particular order you get cherry leaf, and spicy rocky road chocolate. Then, mild menthol gum and dusty musk candy. Moss and watermelon skin white rind are present. A tad on the light side but very solid on subtle spices and mild bitter herbs. Corn kernels and vanilla bean paste. Hoppy really.

Finish: Short to moderate with peppered cucumber, watermelon skin white rind, and mellow menthol gum that ends with a hint of mild bitterness - tonic water.

Comment: Great bottle design and history behind this blend. Some may find it bland, and well, yes, it can be to an extent, but if you can obtain it at a very cheap price, and have an open mind, it should be considered for the historical experience. Better still, if your not sure on a bottle purchase order it at a bar.

Ichiro's Malt "Card": Colour Joker 57.7% abv

Nose: Typical Hanyu charisma with traits we all long for. Juniper Berry & Sandalwood Potpourri with floral-accented aromas. Rare exotic spices (Sumac), apple, birch and quince - honeyed and fresh. Time in the glass introduces Brazilian grilled pineapple (grilled pineapple wedges smothered in condensed milk, brown sugar, and cinnamon). Then, mild Cassis mustard, Mariage Freres' Bel Ami tea (safflowers, roses, masked with pomegranate) and Cadbury Rocky Road chocolate. Spicy mango chutney drifts in and out from here on. With water and additional time tangy but mellow tomato and/or raspberry vinegarette. Then, again, milk chocolate but this time coating roasted coffee beans. Very chameleon like - has the ability to change.

Taste: Sandalwood, wild berry and exotic spices (Sumac) are at the forefront. Tickling the tongue from here on is mulberry with roasted pine nuts and mild mint sauté. Bel Ami tea with a smidgen of Red Gum honey. Do I detect a fusion of strawberries and Wasabi? Wandering spices are continuiously in play with peppered almonds and Cassis mustard. With water and time grilled Shiso leaf and aromatic wood (berry and sandalwood). Mellow hints of licorice. The addition of extra water adds sweet coffee beans and balsamic vinegar over fried tomato (in a welcoming way). Longer exposure in the glass provides various experiences.

Finish: Peppered almonds and Cassis mustard. Quite moderate and prickly with a playful bitterness of tea leaves and spicy honey.

Comment: This malt truly gets better and better as you get close and personal with it. Like most malts don't go by your first impression, wait until you get into your 3rd or 4th dram - patience prevails. It is forever changing with the influence of all those different cask types involved (see here).

Modern Malt Whisky Market in Osaka 2014

           

Quite a few enthusiasts flocked to one of Osaka's savvy hotels recently to sample some of the best whiskies around right now. The Dojima Hotel welcomed the 6th 'Modern Malt Whisky Market in Osaka' on Thursday 17, 2014 - an annual event that is put on by Sanyo-Busan. The event, which is naturally also held in Tokyo, appeals to men and women from all walks of life. A variety of both Scotch and Japanese whiskies were available at hand that provided a good whisky experience. The gathering (which I must admit was a first for me) gave attendees the opportunity to sample some great whiskies (without any additional costs) while rubbing shoulders with people behind the brands, but most importantly it gave friends and acquaintances the chance to mingle together and discuss what's going on in the whisky scene today.

Personal highlights was the opportunity to sample Venture Whisky's Chichibu single cask exclusively bottled for 'Modern Malt'. Cask# 706 (Hogshead) was seasoned with peated genshu in 2009 for a short time, then emptied, and refilled in 2010 with new make distilled from Tipple barley. The cask produced an outturn of 337 bottles, and the allotment on the day sold out quick, as expected, however I do suspect this single cask to pop up in very small quantities at a few given retail establishments - bottled at 63.4%.

Naturally the spotlight was on both Joker's but the extremely small order allotment sold out in minutes - according to the promoters punters lined-up from as early as 7:00am to get the chance to make a purchase. Also drawing attention was yet another Eigashima Akashi, a 4yo that was matured in a white wine, re-charred, 2nd-fill hogshead (Cask# 61091) sourced from a Yamanashi winery. This cask produced an outturn of 400 bottles with only a small amount available on the day for order therefore, I presume this will sprout up sooner or later for retail - 54% abv.

In the Scotch whisky category everyone had their own favourites. I favoured a stunning 35yo Tomatin Cadenhead small batch (1978 vintage), exclusively for Japan, as well as Kilhoman's 2014 edition Loch Gorm - ex-sherry cask matured release. A good day out with impressive seminars. Keep your eyes out for a beautiful expression from Carn Mor - 1989 Glenrothes Sherry Cask.

Japanese Drams of Yesteryear (1): Suntory Za 40% abv

Suntory released the blended whisky "Za" to the market on September 5th, 2000. The blend was the concoction of Suntory's now chief blender Seiichi Koshimizu, and was promoted as being a "whisky made to accompany Japanese-style meals". According to Suntory the blend however never really took off and was a slight check in progress for the now renowned chief blender. There is further insight into the naming and bottle design in the original Japanese press release here.

Nose: Odd and peculiar initially with overpowering aromas of baked white fish meat. In fact it carries an association of the sea in general in a moderate way: soft dried kelp and mellow hints of brine. This subdues after a handful of minutes (luckily, as I'm not keen on the fishy note). Things change direction ceremoniously with old tatami mats, pickled onions, celery, and peeled whole potatoes - guess you could say it is quite vegetal. Best left to sit for 10-15 minutes if you can be patient (I'm sure you can) as it will take the edge of things then, lovely cedar begins to break through - Japanese cedar bathtubs.

Taste: Cedar and lots of it (again, cedar enzyme bath). Much more appealing here then the nose, and without any of the baked fish elements. Aromatic mild peppercorns with mild culinary spice, mellow dried peel (orange/grapefruit), and lavender. Interestingly subtle suggestions of lightly salted licorice. Low key bitterness.

Finish: Mild pepper on celery with a slight bitter note of grapefruit.

Comment: You'll either enjoy it or not. I must say however, it is actually half descent as a highball. There are extra flavours coming out with the help of carbonated water. I can't help but wonder if the shape, packaging, and brand name diminished this blend? Nevertheless, a good historical experience.

An Abundance of Independent Bottlers - Bar Zumon

Update: April 28th, 2014
I have just learnt that the entire area where Bar Zumon is located will be demolished to make way for a "new town". Therefore, the building that houses the establishment will also be knocked down. This bad news means that Bar Zumon will no longer be open from May, 2014 however, the good news is the owner is currently looking for a new premises to re-open. Whiskies R Us will be report on the new location once everything has been finalized, and the bar is up and running. 


Bar Zumon is advertised as a "Darts Bar". Sure, there is one electronic dart board in the place, but this dated piece of machinery gets overlooked on arrival. If the truth be told most people wouldn't notice it - everything but the dart board is just too overwhelming as soon as you step foot in the door. To be critical, the bar shouldn't associate itself with the game and there is good reason.

One thing you quickly learn about this bar is the emphasis on their malt selection rather then on interior. It is safe to say the bar has a no-frills service in terms of decor, but patrons are offered something much more than an exquisite layout. Bar Zumon boasts an enormous selection of whiskies with a heavy focus on Scotch independent bottlers. Literally it is "spot the official bottling", which is fair to say quite unique in any establishment. There are rare independent whiskies everywhere (hundreds), from floor to ceiling, a haven for any aficionado. Someone there has an affection for vintage bottlings and Glen Grant.

Now, it wouldn't be right if I did not mention what is available on the domestic whisky side of things. Here, it's about quality and not quantity. Again, no official bottlings (well not that I saw), and although Bar Zumon has only around three dozen bottles the selection has been carefully chosen. The line-up includes single casks from Karuizawa, Yoichi, Yamazaki, Kawasaki, Mars, and Akashi, as well as Chichibu and Hibiki special releases. Naturally, if you only want to induldge in Japanese whiskies, you can get quantity elsewhere, but if it is exploration you want then take the adventure. Good news is, if there is further interest on Japanese whisky, the bar master - Izumoto-san, will be happy to increase the current selection.

Address

Osaka-shi, Osaka Higashi-Yodogawa-ku, 4-8-26 Awaji Media Building 2F

Access

2 minute walk from Hankyu Awaji station

Map

Click here