Friday, May 8, 2015

Ariake Barrel - Undiscovered Japan


Ariake Sangyo was founded in Kyoto in 1963 as a small, family-owned business established by the Odawara clan. It was here, at the Kyoto headquarters that the firm began its history. In the early days it started out making wooden crates to cradle Japan’s traditional 1.8 litre Sake bottles that are known locally as Sho-bin

Then, in 1984 the firm, using its knowledge of wood properties officially began making casks to meet the initial requirements of wine and Sochu makers all over Japan. Due to a stand-out reputation, increasing demand, reservations and inquiries from whisky distillers, within a few years it was necessary to expand and in 1997 built its present warehouse–Ariake Barrel. Situated in Miyazaki prefecture, located in the southwest of Kyushu, in Japan’s third-largest island, the establishment is one of the few remaining cooperages in the island nation. 

In terms of scale and activity, the amount of employees, and cask turnout, the cooperage is relatively small when compared to international large-scale ‘mega’ production facilities. Eleven highly-skilled 20 year veteran craftsmen on average turnout about 3,600 casks annually or 300 units per month–each barrel a testimony to the many years of experience and dedication to the master coopers. It takes patience, skill, and passion to create the perfect barrel. Time and attention that a small-scale artisanal cooperage like Ariake Barrel painstakingly put into making casks is extremely significant, especially at a time when most large cooperages have significantly replaced man with machines.

Ariake Barrel continue the age-old craftsmanship using traditional methods and tools where the majority of the workload is by hand involving hard physical work.  Here, highly skilled individuals have not been replaced mechanically, the only aid given to the ageing specialists is one mechanical hoop driver for putting on head hoops. Quarter and central hoops, stave repair, and the fitting of barrel heads are implemented the old-fashion way–wielding a weighty hammer and driver. 

There is no automated assemblage or charring here, no computer driven technology, nor any gas burners in sight, traditional toasting and charring methods are employed. Open end casks are placed over open-fire wood burners for a pre-light toast before wood chips and wood shavings are added for 15 seconds to achieve the right level of char. Degree of charring is determined by the eyes and expertise of the coopers who will, when ready, physically and theatrically burrow behind flamed engulfed casks, and by using their body strength and hands lay the casks on their side and roll them for an additional 8 seconds before being extinguished–timing, speed, and the personal pursuit of excellence remain at the forefront. Singed and blackened faces coincide with the beginning of popping and cracking sounds. 90 percent of these newly coopered barrels will go to Sochu industry while the remaining 10 percent is allocated to domestic whisky produces, most of which being for craft or upcoming distilleries. In addition to the production of American Oak barrels at the cooperage Ariake-Barrel import new virgin casks (whole) - French wine (95 percent) and American Oak (5 percent), along with refill casks (whole) - Brandy (50 percent) and Sherry (50 percent).

Currently Ariake-Barrel is not officially open to the public but this may well change in due time.

9 comments:

  1. Interesting post, Clint. I am sure that this was an informative and possibly enlightening visit. Also interesting to note that Ariake Barrel do not cater to major domestic whisky producers, which, I admit, would likely not be possible anyhow given the scale of their production facilities. Now I am looking forward to the separate post on that exclusive order.

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    1. Enlightening visit indeed, Pierre. In fact my very first visit to a cooperage so a memorable visit for sure. Yes, scale is the main reason behind supply and demand, and as mentioned the majority of barrels that are produced head to the Sochu makers that means even if the bigger players wanted to source local barrels they will have to get in line. Kind regards, Clint

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  2. Clint, it sounds like you had a great time there. Other than the staves of mizunara, what other kind of oak are they using for their whisky barrels? And if you know, what wood chips are they using in the charring? (I've become fascinated by the coopering process recently). Hope all is well with you!

    Jason from Fukuoka

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    1. Hi Jason, glad to hear you have become fascinated with the process of making whisky and the coopering behind the barrels, opposed to just drinking the end product :) Ariake Barrel predominately use American Oak when making their barrels. The remaining small percentage consists of Japanese and European Oak. As for the wood shavings/chips used for igniting the flame in the wood burner inside the barrels, this is also mostly American Oak. Likewise, I hope you are well and hopefully there is a possibility to catch up sooner than later. Cheers

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  3. Hi Clint are you able to elaborate on what the name Ariake means? Also how it relates to the Eigashima single malt aged 5 years in Ariake virgin casks. Does mean the imported whole casks you mention?
    Thanks
    Brian

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    1. Hi Brian, generally speaking the word 'Ariake' can be loosely reflected as 'day break', although it is not used in conversation. There are a number of actual locations that go by the name (or did): Ariake, a former town in Kagoshima/Kumamoto, and a district within Tokyo. As for what relation 'Ariake' has to the Eigashima single malt is out in the open here. Quite frankly no one really knows. Having said that it only makes sense that the word 'Ariake' written on the Akashi 5yo label is suggesting that the malt from White Oak was matured in a virgin cask made from Ariake Barrel. Naturally just speculation, so I have fired off an email to the cooperage to confirm. Will keep you posted. Cheers. Clint

      In the case of the cooperage and to my understanding, it is just a company name

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    1. Brian forgot to clarify what 'whole' means. They casks they bring over are imported whole - intact - and not dissembled and flat packed for freight containers, well at least that is what I believe so.

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  5. But why would a cooperage that makes it's own casks import whole casks? For what purpose?

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